Evening Wear by Mad Carpentier

We've looked at the day wear and coats of Mad Carpentier, now let's look at some examples of their evening wear. Light diaphanous draped fabrics, bustles and sleeves with volume were frequently used.

1946

photograph by Genevieve Naylor, 1946

photograph by Genevieve Naylor, 1946

Illustration by Bernard Blossac, 1946, Marcelle Dormoy at left, Mad Carpentier at right

late-1940s Metropolitan Costume Collection

Illustration by Simone Brousse, 1948, Mad Carpentier at left, Marcelle Dormoy at right

Illustration by Jc. Haramboure, 1946

Illustration by Christian Berard, 1944

Illustration by Jacques Demachy, 1945, Mad Carpentier at left, Maggy Rouff at centre, Bruyere at right

1955 with Mellerio dits Meller jewels

Illustration by Marcel Constantini, 1947

photograph by Guy Arsac, 1954

illustration by Rene Gruau, 1945, mad Carpentier at left, Robert Piguet at right

Illustration by Pierre Mourgue, 1945

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1946, Marcel Rochas on left, Mad Carpentier at right

photograph by Phillipe Pottier, 1947

Illustration by Jacques Demachy, 1946, Mad Carpentier at left, Gres at right

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1945

Illustration by Guy Demachy, Jeanne Lanvin at left, Mad Carpentier at centre, Robert Piguet at right

Illustration by Andre Delfau, 1947, Mad Carpentier at left, Jean Patau at right

Illustration by Christian Berard, 1946

Illustration by Andre Delfau, 1947

Illustration by Jacques Demachy, 1946

Illustration by Jacques Demachy, 1946

Illustration by Jacques Demachy, 1946, Jeanne Paquin at left, Robert Piguet at centre, Mad Carpentier at right

Credits: hprints.com

Coats by Mad Carpentier

Yesterday we looked at some of Mad Carpentier's day wear. Now let's look at some of their coats. Mad Carpentier coats were an important part of their business and were especially prone to being copied. The two designers love of volume and draping is in display in many of the examples. The house produced both winter coats and special occasion examples.

 

coats for day...

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1946, Marcelle Alix at left, Mad Carpentier at right

Illustration by Rene Grusu, 1945

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1946

Illustration by Bernard Blossac, 1948, Mad Carpentier at left, Maecelle Chaumont at right

illustration by Bernard Blossac, 1942, Mad Carpentier at left, Jacques Fath at right

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1945

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1945

1948, Pierre Balmain at top, Mad Carpentier at left, Jeanne Lafaurie at right

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1947, Mad Carpentier at left, Maggy Rouff at left

 

coats for night...



photograph by Phillipe Pottier, 1956

courtesy of Kerry Taylor Auctions, mid- 50s

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1945

Mad Carpentier

In 1939 as Madeline Vionnet was beginning to retire two of her employees took the opportunity to open a new design house in Paris. Its name, Mad Carpentier, was formed by amalgamating the two womens' names - Mad Maltezos and Susie Carpentier. Their house remained in business during the war and was open until 1957. The style of mad Carpentier was aimed at the more conservative client who preferred their restrained approach to the bold statements of Dior, Fath or Balenciaga.This lead them to be much used as a source of inspiration in New York's garment district. Mad Carpentier offered their clientele refined tailoring, beautiful coats and delicate evening wear. Volume and draping were key features in their work.They looked back to the 1920s and 30s for their inspiration. While some appreciated this safer approach, their inability to reflect the exuberance of post-war fashion in the manner of Dior for example was a factor in their closure in the late fifties.

lets look at some of their day wear...

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1945

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1946

1949

1945. Balenciaga at left, Lafaurie at centre, Mad Carpentier at right

1950, photograph by Jacques Decaux, Balenciaga at left, Mad Carpentier at right

Illustration by Andre Delfau, 1947, Mad Carpentier at left, Jacques Costet  at right

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1946

Illustration by Bernard Blossac, 1946, Paquin at left, Mad Carpentier at right

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1946

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1945, Mad Carpentier at left, Lucien Lelong at right

Illustration by Andre Delfau, 1946, Chaumont at left, Montaigne at back, Mad Carpentier at front

Illustration by Pierre Mourgue, 1946

Illustartion By Rene Gruau, 1949, left-right, Marcel Rochas, Maggy Rouff, Mad Carpentier, Pierre Balmain

Illustration by Pierre Simon, 1949, left-right, Mad Carpentier, Molyneaux, Hermes, Lafaurie

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1949, Jean Desses at left, Mad Carpentier at right

Illustration by Leon Benigni, 1944, Jacques Fath at left, mad Carpentier at right

Illustration by Eric, 1950, Mad Carpentier at left, Christian Dior at right

Illustration by Desconbes, 1947, Jacques Fath at right, Mad Carpentier at centre, Jean Desses at left

1951, mad Carpentier at top with two Balenciaga designs below

come back tomorrow for more Mad Carpentier...

 

Credits: hprints.com; the Fashion Book, Phaidon (2001); Vintage Fashion Guild