textilesandtrinkets

Friday, 10 August 2012

Paul Iribe, part 2

Yesterday we looked at some of Paul Iribe's work in fashion illustration, today we will look at some examples of his design work. Iribe was a versatile designer, applying his talent to furniture, fabric, wallpaper, jewelry, sets and interiors. Between 1919 and 1923 he worked on design for Hollywood director Cecil B. DeMille. He had his own store on Rue du Fauborg Saint-Honore, Paris dedicated to the decorative arts.

here are some of the items he designed...

furniture

1913

1914

fabric

1914, "Roses" textile, silk and metal, designed for fabric giant Bianchini-Ferier, metropolitan museum of art

jewelry

Iribe first began designing jewelry in 1910 An early example is this flamboyant sarpech (turban brooch) which was designed by Iribe for his first wife Jeanne Dirys in 1911. She wore it while acting in the play Le Codet des Contras and was illustrated wearing the brooch in an advertisement for the play featured in the Comoedia Illustre magazine in March 1911. It consists of a carved Mughal emerald of over 100 carats surrounded by a border of millegrain-set diamonds and calibre-cut sapphires with a series of tapering diamond, pearl and sapphire sprays. In this piece Iribe was experimenting in a proto art-deco style ten years before this aesthetic would really come to popularity. The piece was acquired by Cartier. In 1933 Iribe would collaborate with Chanel on a display of jewelry commissioned by the International Guild of Diamond Merchants which drew great crowds.

fans

These were an important accessory for couturiers with an orientalist aesthetic in the 1910s.

1911 fan design for Jeanne Paquin

1912 fan design for Jeanne Paquin

logos and packaging

One of Iribe's most recognisable pieces of design is the Lanvin mother and daughter icon. Here are some examples of its use through the years.

1926

1928

1933

1947

1955

and for other companies

La Rose de Rosine by Parfums de Rosine, 1912. Designed by Iribe and Poiret

1930 Coty nailpolish advertisement

Credits: allposters.com; elogedeart.canalblog; Lapada- the Association of Art and Antique Dealers; Metropolitan Museum of Art;siamgempalace.

Thursday, 9 August 2012

Paul Iribe

Paul Iribe (1883-1935, French) was a man of many talents- illustrator, journalist and designer in several mediums. Today I am just going to focus on some of his output as a fashion illustrator. His successful career began and ended early. At only seventeen he was submitting illustrations to French satirical magazines and it ended suddenly at fifty-three when he collapsed playing tennis at his lover Chanel's villa in the south of France. Although he was highly prolific in his role as a satirical illustrator it is his work as a fashion illustrator for which he is most remembered. Iribe, along with his contemporaries such as Georger Barbier and Georges Lepage, would revitalise the medium of the fashion plate lending them an intimacy, vividness and sense of narrative not seen before. Publications he contributed to include La Gazette du Bon Ton and Vogue. Couturiers that he produced illustrations for include Paul Poiret, Jeanne Lanvin and Jeanne Paquin.

here are examples of some of his work...

The following three images come from his most famous commission, the 1908 album of prints depicting Paul Poiret's Directoire collection.This finely produced album was available for free in a limited edition of 250 to a select group of Poiret's elite clientele. These prints are great examples of his use of the pochair technique. This involved the hand colouring of a monochrome print using a series of bronze or zinc stencils resulting in an image that captured the vividness of colour intended by the artist.

Les Robes de Paul Poiret recontre par Paul Iribe, 1908

1912 evening wear from Jeanne Paquin, Miss Roggers, Miss Careze

Paul Poiret designs, 1910s

Paul Poiret ensemble, 1910s

1912 advertisement from Femina magazine for Henri de Reginier

advertisement for Paul Poiret, 1920s

1925 illustration of a Lanvin

Illustration from the 1920s depicting a mother and daughter wearing Lanvin- the theme of mother and daughter was often used in Lanvin imagery

come back tomorrow for more on Iribe's design work...

Credits: Bunka Gakuen Library; hprints.com; Poiret: Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton (2007); The Book of Fashion, Phaidon (2001).

Tuesday, 7 August 2012

documentary

Enjoy this interesting documentary from the BBC which focuses on the elite clientele who consume haute couture.

Part1/6

Part2/6

Part 3/6

Part 4/6

Part 5/6

Part 6/6

designer highlight

does the high-low hem...

or if you prefer the mullet hem. However when Balenciaga was experimenting with this currently popular cut in the fifties and sixties it was referred to as the peacock hem/train.