Thursday, 16 August 2012

Mad Carpentier

In 1939 as Madeline Vionnet was beginning to retire two of her employees took the opportunity to open a new design house in Paris. Its name, Mad Carpentier, was formed by amalgamating the two womens' names - Mad Maltezos and Susie Carpentier. Their house remained in business during the war and was open until 1957. The style of mad Carpentier was aimed at the more conservative client who preferred their restrained approach to the bold statements of Dior, Fath or Balenciaga.This lead them to be much used as a source of inspiration in New York's garment district. Mad Carpentier offered their clientele refined tailoring, beautiful coats and delicate evening wear. Volume and draping were key features in their work.They looked back to the 1920s and 30s for their inspiration. While some appreciated this safer approach, their inability to reflect the exuberance of post-war fashion in the manner of Dior for example was a factor in their closure in the late fifties.

lets look at some of their day wear...

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1945

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1946


1945. Balenciaga at left, Lafaurie at centre, Mad Carpentier at right

1950, photograph by Jacques Decaux, Balenciaga at left, Mad Carpentier at right
Illustration by Andre Delfau, 1947, Mad Carpentier at left, Jacques Costet  at right
Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1946

Illustration by Bernard Blossac, 1946, Paquin at left, Mad Carpentier at right
Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1946
Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1945, Mad Carpentier at left, Lucien Lelong at right
Illustration by Andre Delfau, 1946, Chaumont at left, Montaigne at back, Mad Carpentier at front

Illustration by Pierre Mourgue, 1946
Illustartion By Rene Gruau, 1949, left-right, Marcel Rochas, Maggy Rouff, Mad Carpentier, Pierre Balmain
Illustration by Pierre Simon, 1949, left-right, Mad Carpentier, Molyneaux, Hermes, Lafaurie

Illustration by Rene Gruau, 1949, Jean Desses at left, Mad Carpentier at right
Illustration by Leon Benigni, 1944, Jacques Fath at left, mad Carpentier at right

Illustration by Eric, 1950, Mad Carpentier at left, Christian Dior at right

Illustration by Desconbes, 1947, Jacques Fath at right, Mad Carpentier at centre, Jean Desses at left

1951, mad Carpentier at top with two Balenciaga designs below

come back tomorrow for more Mad Carpentier...

Credits:; the Fashion Book, Phaidon (2001); Vintage Fashion Guild

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